Easing into the altitude

La Paz's airport, El Alto, sits at 4,060 meters — higher than most peaks in the Alps. Almost everyone feels the altitude in the first day or two: a light headache, shortness of breath on stairs, poor sleep. This is normal, and it passes.

The local remedy is coca tea, mate de coca, and it genuinely helps — we leave coca leaves and a thermos in both apartments. Drink it through your first days, hydrate more than feels necessary, and go easy on alcohol for the first 48 hours.

Plan your first day deliberately slow: market morning, café afternoon, early night. Save El Alto, the cable cars, and any climbing for day two or three. If you have a heart or lung condition, talk to your doctor before traveling — and consider asking them about acetazolamide.

Packing for La Paz means packing for two climates a day. Mornings and nights are cold (often near freezing); midday sun at this altitude is fierce. Layers, sunscreen, sunglasses, and lip balm earn their space in your bag. And bring comfortable shoes — the city's charm is vertical.